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The Queen's Servants paints a vivid picture of the styles of dress worn at Henry VII's and Henry VIII's courts, using evidence from royal warrants and account books in The National Archive. Purchases by the Great Wardrobe for the ladies of gentle birth who attended the queens and their children are clues to the appropriate appearance of a woman in close contact with the royal family. Based on transcriptions and translations of more than 200 hand-written pages of the original Latin and English documents dating from 1485 to 1520, the book reveals a wealth of fascinating facts about expenditure on garments for gentlewomen serving at the Tudor court. The documents provide precise evidence of the fabrics and yardages, pinpointing features of cut and construction, such as the presence of padded pleats at the back of a gown in 1498 and the extravagant size of wide sleeves. The clothes demonstrate a transition in English style between the flowing lines of the late medieval period and those toward the end the reign of Henry VIII when French gowns and hoods became the characteristic wear of the elite. Typical furs, fabrics and colours are identified with their conventional uses for specific garments and indications as to how these changed over the 35 years of the survey period. Patterns provide guidance on the reconstruction of a complete set of clothes for a gentlewoman at the turn of the century including several styles of smock, a typical kirtle and two styles of gown with a range of sleeve variations. Bonnets, pastes and frontlets are the usual items of headwear issued to gentlewomen during the era. Suggestions for recreating these are also provided. The range of original images, previously unpublished material from documentary sources, and the artist's impressions of clothing based on them make this book an essential text for students of sixteenth century dress and an asset to anyone interested in accurately reproducing clothing of the era.
- Sales Rank: #500132 in Books
- Published on: 2011-12-01
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.12" h x .16" w x 7.99" l,
- Binding: Paperback
- 56 pages
- 56 pages with colour illustrations throughout
- Patterns for smocks, kirtles, gowns and headwear with advice on appropriate fabrics and comprehensive making instructions
- Detailed line drawings and diagrams by Michael Perry
- Sumptuous full-colour photographs by Henrietta Clare
Most helpful customer reviews
17 of 17 people found the following review helpful.
Counterpart to The Kings Servants
By A Student
The Queen's Servants is the distaff counterpart to The King's Servants. It is in the same format: a case study of the clothes and materials given from the Great Wardrobe to the various female servants that surrounded Queen Catherine of Aragon early in Henry VIII's reign. This book, like The King's Servants, relies on The Tudor Tailor to fill in the essential construction details.
The working class women of the castle, laundresses etc. are not covered as they received neither livery or material from the Great Wardrobe.
16 of 16 people found the following review helpful.
The Queeen's servants/from a historical costumer
By Vicky Kissinger-Loehr
Having done historical 16th century costume since 1976, I am always looking for new information. The books "The Queen's Servants" and "The Tudor Tailor" are fabulous books for the serious scholar and costumer. They are not for fast theatre/halloween costumers. The research is fabulous, the photos are a godsend, and the dirctions are written with clarity. The patterns are easy to follow (for an experienced costumer), and the data is backed by excellent research, from cut of patterns to textiles and colors. Good value for the money spent.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Worth every penny!
By Costuming junkie
If you are a fan of The Tudor Tailor, you must buy this companion book! The patterns are the same wonderful quality as those in The Tudor Tailor and the text is amazing. My visual image of the early 16th century English court is forever altered by the information in this book. Now, in my mind's eye, I see ladies dressed in tawney and violet. I understand Henry the Eighth's "extravagance" when he dressed his household in silk gowns instead of the woolen gowns that had been good enough in his father's court in a way that an ordinary history book could never make me understand. This book enlightens the reader about the pace of the changes between the late medieval period and the beginnings of the "Northern Renaissance" of the sixteenth century in a way that no history of costume I have ever read has done. In short I believe it to be an invaluable companion to the Tudor Tailor, but a book that can stand on its own for the student of the early Tudor period.
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